Vietnamese Fish Cakes

Ingredients

• 2 kg fresh white fish fillets, very cold (Victoria perch, tilapia, pangasius, mackerel, snakehead, red tilapia, or another firm fish with translucent flesh)
• 1 tbsp (15 g) sugar
• 3 tbsp (45 ml) fish sauce
• 1 tbsp cornstarch
• 1/2 tsp baking powder (not baking soda)
• 1 tbsp neutral oil, plus more for frying
• Black pepper, to taste
• 1–2 tbsp fried shallot and garlic, or to taste
• Fresh dill, chopped, to taste
• Optional: chili, minced or sliced
• Ice water, for rinsing and keeping the fish cold

Method

1. Keep everything cold. Rinse the fish in ice-cold water, then dry it very thoroughly with paper towels. Excess water makes the fish paste loose instead of springy.
2. Cut the fish into strips or small pieces. Grind through an 8 mm plate, or mince finely with a knife if you do not have a grinder.
3. Chill the ground fish until it is below 4°C / 39°F. For the bounciest texture, the fish should be partly frozen but still cuttable, around 0°C or slightly below.
4. Add the cold fish to a stand mixer or food processor. Mix on low, then higher speed, with the sugar and fish sauce for about 4 minutes, until the paste starts to bind.
5. Add cornstarch, baking powder, and 1 tbsp oil. Check the temperature again; if the paste has warmed above 4°C, freeze briefly before continuing. Mix for about 2 more minutes, or until glossy, sticky, and elastic.
6. Fold in black pepper, fried shallot and garlic, dill, and optional chili. Mix briefly on low just until evenly distributed. Do not add the herbs and aromatics at the beginning because they can weaken the binding.
7. The paste is ready when it clings to the paddle and stretches smoothly. If it looks crumbly or loose, chill it again before mixing more.
8. For storage, portion the raw fish paste into 100–200 g packets, wrap well, and freeze. Thaw only what you need so the texture stays firm.
9. To fry, shape the paste into flat cakes about 1 cm thick. Fry in hot oil until puffed, cooked through, and golden on both sides.
10. If making thicker cakes, partially cook them first by microwaving for 2–3 minutes depending on size, then fry until golden. Serve hot, or use in noodle soups, tomato sauce, hot pot, or bánh canh.

Adapted from Vành Khuyên Lê.